Gym Work

A1. Back squat; build to a tough double
A2. Weighted chin up; build to a tough double
B1. Back squat 1, 1, 1; rest 2 min
B2. Amrap CTB kipping chin ups (-5) x3; rest 2 min

270
95

280,290 (PR), 300 (PR) – LIFETIME GOAL!  I came OFF the ground at the top of this from exploding so hard.  I have so much power in my legs today.  I can do more.
15,10,20 – totally sandbagged the first 2 sets cause I wanted 300 so bad today and didn’t want the chinups to hold me back.

SO PUMPED!  I feel amazing today.  2 days off completely for the first time in a month resulted in a very primed and ready to rock body and mind.  I’m peaked right now and very excited to see how climbing goes tomorrow.

 

Sleep	10
Refreshed?	yes
length	9 – woke up 1 hour before alarm ready to rock
Stress	2-3
Desire to Train	10
Food quality	8-9
Supps	yes
Play	workout was play today
Climbing improvement	na
balance/rest	good, planned
Coffee intake	1 tumbler-  french press
Stretching/Recovery	will do 10 min

Gym Work

A. 5×6 single arm eccentric chins; rest as needed

1. L-8,5,3,2,2,2 R-7,4,3,3,2,2
2. L-5,3,3,2,2,2 R-3,3,2,2,2,2
3. L-2,3,2,2,1,1 R-2,2,2,2,2,2
4. L-2,2,2,2,1,1 R-2,2,2,2,2,1
5 – bailed, just falling straight down, no control at all, didn’t want to hurt myself
Rested 2:30 min btwn arms first 3 sets, then 4 min after that.  Longer rest doesn’t seem to help much.  Only the first few reps feel very productive.

+
3 sets @97%:
AD 25 seconds
Rest 3:05
1. 20 cal
2. 17 cal
3. 17 cal
This feels super lactate intensive for me and hurts more than part 2.

+
3 sets @97%:
Row fast 40 seconds
Rest 3:50
1. 216m/1:32.5
2. 219m/1:31.3
3. 219/1:31.3
This doesn’t feel lactic at all.  I just get fatigued and can’t push any harder.  This feels similar to row sprints at 15-20 sec where I just can’t pull any harder, but no burning.
+
3 sets
7 burpees AFAP
Airdyne 55 seconds @95-97%
Rest 6 min
1. 26 cal
2. 26 cal – OUCH, this was a truly intense effort to hit that again
3. 10 cal – toast, not even 50% recovered after round 2.  Barely off the floor, quads still burning.

 

Can you comment on your thoughts of why part 1 feels so much more lactic intense than part 2 for me?  On paper I would think it to be the opposite.

What an intense week.  I am totally wiped.  The sofa and I will be great friends from 12 tomorrow through Sunday night.  Time for a massage and some serious recovery.

 

Sleep	10
Refreshed?	yes
length	9
Stress	1
Desire to Train	7 – tired still
Food quality	8
Supps	yes
Play	yes, finally
Climbing improvement	na
balance/rest	lots of rest in the morning
Coffee intake	1 pack via
Stretching/Recovery	1 hour massage

Climbing – Training

A. Warm up – top rope routes.  Feet move 2-3 times before hands, climb with legs.  Then straight arm climbing, climb with legs.

B. Bouldering – traverse wall, take away holds every time to increase difficulty.

C. String together boulder problems.  Climb 1 up, down another and 1 another.  Tried V4/V2/V3 – failed last move on stupid V4.  Then V4/V2/V3 – success.  Then attempted another and made it about half way through before becoming too pumped out.

D.  Cool down 10 min traverse.

Gym Work

A. Power clean x1/Push press x5; rest 2 min x4 sets
B. Power snatch 2 reps @90% 1rm on the minute for 7 minutes (stop if you fail)
+
20 min z1 Row

A. 130# – all sets, push press felt so weak, this sucked.  The power clean and first 2-3 reps of pp felt super easy, but 4-5 reps were super hard.
B. 140# – got to the 6th set and failed the 2nd rep.  I honestly can’t believe I even got that many.  I was yelling every rep and willing it up.  Splitting legs too wide and some press out on a few.

row: HR 138 avg bpm/4601 meters/2:10.4 avg/500m/ SPM between 17-23
Legs felt pretty good, traps are tired.

I needed at least 2 more hours of sleep last night, but couldn’t avoid getting up early today.  Mental fortitude training this week!  My body says no and my head says yes.  So far my head is winning.  I will sleep LOTS tonight.

 

Sleep	6
Refreshed?	no
length	7.5
Stress	3
Desire to Train	6
Food quality	9
Supps	yes
Play	no
Climbing improvement	na
balance/rest	needed more sleep
Coffee intake	2 cups
Stretching/Recovery	chiro

Climbing – training

A. Slow full traverse 1 direction – warmup
B. two handed dynamic moves up easy routes
C. Flag technique practice up easy routes
D. Project a super hard route (V6) for 30 min – solid.  Much better on this than anything else today.
E. 3xV4 every 3 min – fell off second to last move except last time
F. 3xV3 every 2 min – nailed it every time
G. 3x V3 every 1 min – fell off before finish every time

NO endurance at all today.  Easily pumped, BUT super strong on short stuff.  Could hold very hard moves, great day for projecting.

Tired again today.  Yesterday I was completely wiped after my workout.  I had 3 coffees and it did nothing for me after those back squats.  Today is better, not completely wiped after climbing, but overall fatigued.

Sleep	8
Refreshed?	woke easily, but still tired
length	9.5
Stress	3
Desire to Train	7
Food quality	9
Supps	yes, no D
Play	climbing, but didn’t feel super playful
Climbing improvement	decent
balance/rest	ok, need more rest
Coffee intake	1 tall drip
Stretching/Recovery	none

Gym Work

A1. Back squat clusters 1.1.1.1.1×5; rest 10 sec/rest 2 min (90%1rm)
A2. Weighed chin up clusters 1.1.1.1.1×5; rest 10 sec/rest 2 min (90%
is of {90% of 1rm chin up+BWT})
B. Side laying elbow on side external rotations @40×0, 12-15×3/arm;
rest 1 min bw arms

(285 1RM) – all sets done at 255#, these once again felt good.  I am amazed at how good these feel after yesterday.  I guess the learning here is that if aerobic work is truly done at a low enough percentage (ie: below 75%), strength is hardly effected.  At least for me personally anyway.

Chinups were a complete disaster.  I had nothing.  I just could not pull.
1st set, 110 (90%) – fail, 100, – fail, 85×2, terminated set
All remaining sets done at 75# and barely.  Only 4 reps on last set.

Should we change up something for chins?  Maybe the 1 arm negatives are just destroying me and I need longer recovery?  I’m not sore from them or anything.

+10lbs x12 reps all sets (failure on 12 of last set)

Overall good today considering.  Aerobic system very taxed, tougher recovery between sets, higher breathing rate than normal.

Sleep	7
Refreshed?	yes
length	9 – but woke quite a few times
Stress	3
Desire to Train	7-8
Food quality	8
Supps	yes, no Vit D for a couple days, got TONS yesterday
Play	no, lots of work
Climbing improvement	na
balance/rest	planned, work
Coffee intake	a bunch
Stretching/Recovery	none yet

Hike to Camp Muir – 10,000ft

Hiked to camp muir on Sunday.  VERY happy with how I felt.  Carried 45+ lbs, 5,000 ft up.  Used Spiz and water only the whole time up and then ate some food and waited for the rest of the crew for close to an hour.  The had a blast glissading down shutes with Wynter and Daniel.  Today (Monday), I am not sore at all and only feel a little tired.  Didn’t sleep super well last night.  But overall feel better on the mountain than I have in a long, long time.  Stoked to have enjoyed such an awesome day.  Due to waiting for others I also got a chance to really enjoy the views and experience.  Took time to just enjoy….

Off

First day off in a couple weeks!  Few hours of work this morning, then hanging with friends and playing some bocce ball at the lake.

Tomorrow is another training hike on Rainier.  Heavy packs up to camp Muir – 10,400 ft.  Weather’s looking good, and stoked to take Wynter up for her first time.

Sleep	10
Refreshed?	yes
length	9.5
Stress	2
Desire to Train	6 – I feel good though, just know I don’t have to
Food quality
Supps	yes
Play	yes
Climbing improvement	na
balance/rest	should be good
Coffee intake	none – decaf
Stretching/Recovery

Gym work

A. 5×5 single arm eccentric chins; rest as needed

L 7,5,3,3,3 R 6,4,3,2,2
L 4,3,2,2,2 R 4,4,2,2,2
L 3,3,2,2,2 R 2,3,2,2,2
L 2,2,2,2,2 R 2,2,2,2,2
L 2,3,2,2,2 R 2,2,2,2,1
Arms are toast and achy after this.  Stretched and rested to wait for them to be useful on AD/Row.
+
3 sets @97%:
AD 20 seconds
Rest 2:35

1. 16 cal
2. 16 cal
3. 14 cal
+(rested 15 min)
3 sets @97%:
Row 35 seconds
Rest 3:20

1. 197m/1:28.8
2. 200m/1:27.5
3. 199/1:27.9
Had to rely more on legs than I normally would on a shorter piece like this.
+ (Rested 15 min but needed more)
2 sets
7 burpees AFAP
Airdyne 50 seconds @95-97%
Rest 5 min

1. 22 cal
2. 19 cal – extreme quad burn for at least 10 min after.  Was not recovered at all between sets today.

This workout hurt lots more than last week.

Sleep	6
Refreshed?	no
length	7
Stress	2
Desire to Train	8-9
Food quality	8 – small glass of wine with dinner
Supps	yes
Play	no
Climbing improvement	na
balance/rest	ok, rested in the morning
Coffee intake	2 cups
Stretching/Recovery	iced left achilles, really sore for some reason, maybe jumping off routes

Climbing – training

1.5 hours.

20 min traverse warmup.
+
4×4 boulder problems.  Up and down 4 times with as little rest between the route as possible.  Rest as needed between sets.
+
Work to climb as many routes in allotted time to earn “points.”  Point earned according to the grade climbed/completed.  I had to leave early so only did about 20 min/8 points.

Overall felt great today.  Best I’ve felt climbing in 2 weeks.  Had good strength AND endurance today.  My mental game was on today and I felt like I was climbing better than I have been in a while.  Haven’t projected any routes in a while, so we’ll see how my bouldering has improved on a fresh day.

I’m slowly adjusting to the increased workload this week.  5 hours of coaching added to my schedule this week.

Interesting note on food.  I ate some gluten last night (don’t know why, I didn’t even want it), and my stomach was a bit upset (it normally isn’t).  But I woke up feeling great and performed very well today.  I’ve seen this happen in the past, but I’m not totally sure why.  It could be the carb load?  But I haven’t been eating low carb at all.  Tons of sweet potatoes/fruit/lara bars/dark choc.  It could also be part of Wed workout.  That day feels hard while I’m doing it, but I always feel more recovered/fresh the following day.

+

PM Climbing with Alan at SBP.  Watched an awesome slide show presentation from Colin Haley.  Then bouldered for 90 more minutes.  Hands are RAW, but felt pretty good actually.  Slightly fatigued from this morning.

Sleep	9
Refreshed?	yes
length	8-9
Stress	3
Desire to Train	9
Food quality	9
Supps	yes
Play	climbing
Climbing improvement	good
balance/rest	no rest, all work and play today
Coffee intake	a large cup french press
Stretching/Recovery	none