Climbing

Brought a friend today.  Top roped a few routes.  Very weak, no juice.  Then worked some parts of boulder problems and hung out with other climbers, helping each other figure out problems.  Felt strong for short 3-7 moves, then just done.  No endurance at all. I will definitely crush new V6 on Tues – all parts are good to go.

Very successful, tough training week.  Worked very hard.

Ready for an easier lifting week next and more hard climbing.  Big break through this past couple weeks-month for climbing.  A V10 is seeming more possible every week.

Gym Work

A. Split Jerk, 5-3-1-5-3-1, 3 min – 90-95% effort for all sets, no increase in 2nd wave

B1. OHS @ 30X1, 3-4 reps x 3 sets, 10 sec

B2. Muscle-ups, AMRAP x 3 sets, 5 min

C1. DB Back Extensions @ 2010, 12-15 reps x 3 sets, 30 sec

C2. Side Bridge, 90 sec per side x 3 sets per side, 30 sec (30 sec b/t sides)

130,160,180 – both sets, second felt easier
180×3, 180×2 – lost balance, 180×3
5,3,3
+40 lbs x12 all sets
done – very hard

Sleep	10
Refreshed?	yes
length	9
Stress	2
Desire to Train	9
Food quality	9
Supps	yes
Play	sorta
Climbing improvement	na
balance/rest	lots of work, very productive
Coffee intake	1 cup

Climbing – training

A. Technique work 30 min – Worked on another V6 the whole time.  I’ve got all the parts down except the last move.  I will nail this on Tues next week.  It is awesome, I’ll try to vid.  It is very power oriented/suits my strengths, but worked me over big time.  Felt quite fatigued after the session, but strength is still high even though I’m sore EVERYwhere.

B. ARC – 1x 30 min session

 

(saturday will be PE + top roping)

Sleep	8
Refreshed?	sorta
length	8-9
Stress	2
Desire to Train	9
Food quality	9
Supps
Play	climbing!
Climbing improvement	excellent
balance/rest	ok, not much rest
Coffee intake	2-3 cups

Gym work

A. Clean Grip DL @ 30X0, 5-5-5, 5 min

B1. HSPU, AMRAP x 5 sets, 1 min

B2. Toes to Bar, 15 reps x 5 sets, 1 min

C. DB Walking Lunges, 10-8-6/leg, 2 min

290,310,330
13,9,5,5,4

done – unbroken and with sore abs
52.5, 62.5, 72.5 – tough

Sleep	9
Refreshed?	no, woke with Wynter then fell back asleep
length	9
Stress	2
Desire to Train	9
Food quality	8-9
Supps	yes
Play	sorta
Climbing improvement	na
balance/rest	decent, no rest
Coffee intake	2 cups

Climbing – training

A.  Campus board

1-4-6-7;rest 4 min L
1-4-6-7; rest 4 min R
1-4-6-7; rest 4 min L
1-4-6-7; rest 4 min R

B. Climbing, bouldering

Completed my first V6!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  3rd try.
Flashed a dyno V4, then worked a couple V5’s that I need to try fresh.

Awesome day.

Skipped hang board training.  Want to do this on a separate day towards beginning of the week.  I’m thinking Wed am before lifting.

Gym work

A. Power Clean. Front Squat, 1.5 x 3 sets, 5 min

B1. Close Grip Bench Press @ 20X0, 12-15 reps x 3 sets, 20 sec

B2. Chest to Bar Chin-ups, 12-15 reps x 3 sets, 5 min

C. GH Sit-ups, 20 reps x 3 sets, 60 sec

180,190,190 – felt awesome today

140×12 all sets

15,15,12

done – painful

Sleep	9
Refreshed?	yes
length	10
Stress	2
Desire to Train	9
Food quality	8
Supps	yes
Play	little
Climbing improvement	na
balance/rest	good
Coffee intake	2 cups

Climbing

Routes:

Started with some bouldering – tried a V6, foot slipped off, but almost had it in my “weakened” state.  Will definitely nail this one in the next couple weeks.  Worked a few other V5’s and then was toast for bouldering.

Top rope:
5.9 flash
5.10 flash
5.11+ steming corner route, ALMOST got it.  At the very top and stemmed out completely horizontal in the corner.  More freaked out then anything, but very tough finish.
5.11 again, got to the very end and couldn’t finish the last 2 moves.

 

Overall fun day and felt pretty strong considering.  Better stamina then Thurs, but still not full.  Felt great after climbing.

Climbing

Top rope:

5.9 flash

5.10  flash

5.11 took a couple tries to figure out top section, but finished it

5.10+ layback style, too tired at this point, climbed 3/4 of it

Just physically ran out of juice quickly, but otherwise felt ok.  The 5.11 was a surpise, wasn’t expecting to climb at this level today.

Climbing

Domination!

Killed the V5 I’ve been working forever and it was EASY.  Worked a couple others and almost completed a V6.  Felt awesome, very strong, lots of stamina.

 

Leading up 1 week hard lifting + 1 week hard climbing training, followed by light easy lifting Monday then climbing = awesomeness.  Must repeat over and over until it stops working.

Hard week/easy week alternating seems to be the ticket for now.

Gym work

A. Power Clean and Split Jerk, 1 moderate effort rep x 5 sets, 90 sec

B1. DB Back Extensions @ 2010, 8-12 x 4 sets, 10 sec

B2. Clapping Push-ups, AMRAP (-3) x 4 sets, 10 sec

B3. GH Sit-ups, 20 reps x 4 sets, 3 min

160 – all sets, clean great, jerks – ehh

+40×12 all sets

20,18,13,10

done

Head hurts from situps…

Sleep	8
Refreshed?	yes
length	8
Stress	4
Desire to Train	6-7
Food quality	8
Supps	yes
Play	no
Climbing improvement	na
balance/rest	lots of work next few weeks
Coffee intake	2 shots