A. Max R (up only campus boards)
3 sets; rest 5-10 min
1. 1-3-5-7, match start, match finish – large holds on left side
2. same
3. same
Felt good and fairly easy. Will try harder/more next week.
B. Strength (hang board)
Go for muscle failure not pump (focus on pinch/sloper holds)
8 holds; 10 sec hang; 5 sec rest x5 sets; rest 2 min
1. bottom outside edge 10: rest 5 x3 sets; rest 2 min
2. med outside edge – pinch bottom 10:5 x3; rest 2 min
3. middle sloper pinch 10:5×5; rest 2 min
4. flat sloper 10:5×1; rest 2 min
5. middle 3 finger pocket 10:5 x5 ;rest 2 min
6. top outside edge 10:5 x3; rest 2 min
7. big sloper 10:5 x4; rest 2 min
8. outside jugs 10:5 x5
No pump on these – all strength fatigue. Will re-arrange some for next week to try for more sets and hard to easy sequence.
C. Skill training 30 min, easy routes only – do not allow pump
Routes/results:
V2 flash, Tried a V3 (fell 1/2 way), tried V2 – fell
Worked and nailed this really cool V4 in the corner. Its all pushing and body movement until the last 2 moves which were pretty easy. The only reason I could climb this route is due to the non-pulling nature of it. My forearms and biceps are toast.
Parts A and B are rough on the hands – esp A. Ripped some skin today. Contrast shower on arms after. Very poor food timing today. Way too much time between bfast and lunch/post workout.
| Sleep | 8 |
| Refreshed? | yes |
| length | 8 |
| Stress | 2 |
| Desire to Train | 9 |
| Food quality | 8-9 |
| Supps | yes |
| Play | climbing |
| Climbing improvement | good |
| balance/rest | decent |
| Coffee intake | 2 cups |
davidmweaver 