Colchuck Peak – North Buttress Coulior

Stats

Vert: approx 11K
Distance: approx 13 miles
Hours: 11.5 car to car; 1:45 from car to lake; 30 min to base of glacier, 5-6 hours to summit, 1 hour to lake, 1:30 out.
Weather: GREAT
Conditions: A little sloppy, but held up alright to make the coulior go
Pack weight: 32# (had overnight gear just in case)

Overall had a fun time.  Was a full value day for sure.  There was very little relaxing at all.  Sometime on rock climbs, there is a fair amount of sitting around belaying, but not so for this one.  Pretty much moving the entire day.  I paid close attention to my fueling and hydration for the day.  Feel like I nailed it pretty well.  No cramping, and felt really good except for getting pretty tired the last hour or so before the summit.  Felt REALLY good on the way down.  I ran from Colchuck lake to the car on all the down hills.  Walked the flats and ups.  Everything went well except for Alan’s jetboil catching on fire at the top!  Wish I got a picture….  The coulior was pretty fun, but a little soft so it took a while longer than I would’ve liked.  Placed a couple pieces of pro and pickets multiple times – all simul-climbed.  The training this year has paid off well.  Last year I had a mega headache/sickness at this altitude/distance.  Great training day.

On to the pics!

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Colchuck Peak – morning clouds

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The coulior on the right

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In the coulior – Alan leading the second half

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Around back – more steep climbing.  We down climbed a bit and decided that was not the way to go.  Went back up, did a quick step of rock climbing in crampons, and found a better way to go.  More steep coulior climbing brought us the the summit block.  A few 5.easy moves brought us to the summit.

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Obligatory summit shot.

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Mt Stuart in all her glory.

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Getting ready to glissade down Colchuck glacier.  Less than ideal conditions for it, but still better than walking.

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Parting shot.  Colchuck on the right.