Caught a bug. Been out for 5 days so far. I am DYING to train. One of the good things about getting sick is that desire to train goes through the roof for me. I’ve also had lots of time to think. Some new ideas rolling around in my head related to training and what I want to accomplish. My head is still a bit foggy but here is what I know.
- I am completely inspired by Kilian Journet and the things he is doing.
- Goal reviews are due. Last year this next month was one of the best of the season. This year, I feel like my season is starting to wrap up. I have yet to accomplish my main goal of Mt Stuart North Ridge. If a window opens for that, I will take it. Otherwise, I don’t have any projects I’m super psyched on. I’m starting to look forward to getting back to training and getting stronger than last year in the rock gym. I do feel that my sport climbing has improved this year but I am fairly weak for bouldering. I am also totally OK with this as the trade off for alpine adventure is completely worth it (and necessary!).
- One of the best improvements I’ve seen this year is confidence. I have lead routes and crushed old time trials with the mental attitude that wasn’t a question but a “go and do” with speed and skill. Experience and training have contributed greatly to this.
- I am always riding this balance of, “man I’ve got a long way to go” and “yeah, ok I am pretty good at this stuff now.” The first is the more often prevalent thought. I don’t see this as a bad thing, as it drives me to seek improvement and not become complacent.
What do I want? To be a:
boulderer?
sport climber?
mountaineer?
ice/mixed climber?
alpinist?
mtn runner?
All of the above?
Which one has the most weight, and how can the others feed into that?
To me I think Alpinist is like the pinnacle. A good Alpinist is skilled at a very high level in all of these things.
So what level in each category would be good?
Boulder – I’d be stoked to send V10 and onsight V6/7
Sport – Send 5.13 and onsight 5.12
Trad – Lead 5.11 comfortably, get VERY effecient in the alpine environment
Mountaineer – Learn more safety stuff, I feel pretty adequately accomplished in many ways here, take a couple rescue classes, main concern is altitude training yearly
Ice/mixed – virtually no experience, LOTS to learn here – start with trip to Colorado for Ouray ice climbing festival in Jan?? Not even sure what is considered good.
Mtn running – just for fun, joy, altitude training, mental prep for long, being outside, exploring – not concerned or desiring a race environment here, although not opposed
Next steps:
- Discuss with James how to layer and prioritize these things throughout the years(s). Stronger bouldering leads to better sport climbing, better sport leads to better trad/alpine leads provided they are developed together. Starting from ground up on Ice stuff, BUT the strength is there, just need to learn the skill and sport specific endurance. Along with this maintaining a high level of aerobic fitness throughout the year as THIS GREATLY contributes to how much FUN I have in the experience.
- Pick a big scary goal that encompasses the use of multiple skills – or something that would be considered Alpinism
Overall big picture goal – To be the best climber/Alpinist I can develop into, WHILE also being a present father and husband. None of this stuff even matters if I don’t get to share it with my little family.
Lots more to discuss and think about… Number 1 priority right now is getting back to full health and regular Z1’s 4-5 x’s/week.
davidmweaver 
I found your blog through the OPT website, just wanted to say I have really enjoyed reading about your training. This post touches on a lot of the questions I have about my goals, where I am now, and how to get to where I want to be as a climber. I very much look forward to seeing what James has in store for you (and since I can’t afford him as a coach, perhaps riffing on some of his ideas for you). Best of luck.
Awesome, glad you find it helpful! Let me know if you’d ever like any additional help/coaching/etc… (I’m not nearly as expensive as James ;))
Haha, right on. I’m curious about how you feel the relatively shorter work capacity wods James has you doing prepare you for longer days in the mountains. I suppose I’m stuck on the old school, endurance sports mentality of racking up a ton of (sport specific) hours. Thoughts?
They worked really well this year for me and where I’m at. That’s the big key – for where I’m at. I respond really quickly to aerobic training and what looks like a few 10 min sessions/week is really: 3 10 min session + 4-6 20 min Z1 sessions + 4-6 hours climbing/week. The outdoor long days MUST happen WITH this stuff. For example, this year I did a long day up to 8200 ft, then long 2 days up to 6200 ft, then long 2 days up to 8300ft, which then allowed me to do car to car trip of Rainier up to 14,000 ft in one push. One of the big keys for me is those little 20 min session specifically on the versa climber. I was WAY faster outside this year than last. It’s also about lifestyle and how much time I can devote to “long” stuff. So tons of factors, but yes it can work if the long is there also often enough.